Not much later we elevate into high alpine area and soon we face the Himalaya's for the first time in our lives.

The combination of the long and winding roads and a slightly tempered and impatient driver has taken its toll when we reach the ski town of Gulmarg located at the base of Mount Apharwat.

As our stolen breath returns from the mountains, we come to a somewhat disheartening conclusion – there is no snow.